Rosh Hashana, loosely translated as “head of the year,” begins tonight and whether or not you’re Jewish or observant, Brew readers might want to get in the spirit of the occasion by trying a recipe and learning about one of the few Glatt Kosher restaurants in Baltimore.

First, the establishment that’s Glatt Kosher, which means the food is prepared according to the most rigid of proscribed Jewish dietary laws.

Royal Kosher Restaurant, in Northwest Baltimore, is managed by second-generation restaurateur David Moin, partner and head chef. Moin explained how the family came to Baltimore. His father was driven out of business in Iran during the 1979 revolution because, Moin said, he had two big strikes against him: he was Jewish and he served liquor.

Moin’s two brothers came to Baltimore and, with a third partner, bought a restaurant. Several years later, after younger brother David joined them, they went on to other endeavors and Moin now owns and runs the business with their partner. They have been at the same location for over 20 years.

Like all really kosher restaurants, they are closed on the Sabbath and religious holidays like this one, beginning this evening.

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The Royal Restaurant
7002 Reisterstown Rd., in the Colonial Village Shopping Center
Baltimore, MD. 21215
410-484-3544
Open: Sunday through Thurs. 11:00 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Fri. 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Closed Saturday and Jewish Religious Holidays
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But it’s worth a trip to the Royal to explore their eclectic menu, which gives more than a nod to the fact that Kosher cuisine is international.

“Our menu reflects the broad tastes of our customers,” Moin said. “We do a lot of Chinese cooking, as well as Middle Eastern, Italian, and of course, a representation of American cooking.”

The only difference is that since they serve meat, no dairy products are permitted. They are a BYOB, but insist on closed bottles only, with a kosher stamp.

When I ask Moin why certain traditonal dishes such as the Tzimmes, (recipe below) are not on the menu, he said “it’s because most of our guests, cook those dishes at home.”

Home is where most religious celebratory meals are shared with family and friends. Many universities in Baltimore now have kosher kitchens where students share traditional meals, but that wasn’t always the case.

“We would cater holiday meals for students,” Moin said.

Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday are buffet nights. When I admit I am not a huge fan of buffet-dining, because it is way too much food, Moin says I am missing the point.

“It isn’t only about volume,” he said. “It gives you a chance to see and try something on the menu you might not order until you’ve tasted it.” Fair enough.

A bestseller on the menu, Moin said, is the Chicken Breast Terryaki, which is flavorful and tender. I prefer the Chicken Kabob and the Beef Shish Kabob, marinated pieces of hanger steak, interspersed with onions and mushrooms. These dishes are servd with seasoned rice and steamed assorted vegetables.

The Royal also does on-premise catering. (Their largest event has been for over 300 people.) Moin has a staff that seems to have its act together.

If you’d like to observe the Jewish New Year the traditional way, try one of the sweet and seasoned foods served at that time of year. Here are two recipes that will serve 10 or more.

POT ROASTED BEEF WITH FRUIT AND VEGETABLES – “TZIMMES”
½ pound pitted prunes (picked over for pit pieces)
1 cup orange juice
3 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
5 pounds brisket (not corned beef)
2 cups sliced onion
3 cloves garlic minced
23 cups beef broth
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon freshly minced ginger
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 cinnamon stick, optional
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
grated zest of 1 orange
6 large carrots (about 1 ½ pounds), scraped and cut in 1 inch slices
4 medium sweet potatoes (about 1 ½ pounds) peeled and cut in 2 inch pieces
2 cups dried apple rings, each cut in half
1/3 cup brown sugar
water as needed

Preparation:

Pre-heat oven to 350º. In a small bowl soak prunes in orange juice. Reserve. In a large ovenproof Dutch oven or covered heavy roaster, heat the olive oil over medium heat on the top of the stove. Salt and pepper the brisket and brown it on both sides. Add the onions and garlic and stir until they are wilted.

Remove from heat. In a medium bowl mix together the beef broth, tomato paste, thyme, cinnamon, cloves and orange zest. Pour over brisket. Cover and place in oven roast for 1 hour 45 minutes.

Add carrots, sweet potatoes, apples and sugar to brisket. Roast an additional 45 minutes. Drain prunes and discard juice. Add prunes to tzimmes and stir. Roast an additional 30 minutes. Roast for a total of 31/2 – 4 hours until meat is fork-tender. Check every 30 minutes and add a cup of water if needed.

HONEY CAKE – “LEKACH”

3 cups flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon cloves
½ teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
2 cups honey
1 cup orange juice
½ cup black coffee
¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 extra large egg, lightly beaten
½ cup fig conserve, room temperature, may be omitted
½ cup raisins
½ cup dried apricots, diced
½ cup pistachios
12 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
4 tablespoons Pareve margarine for greasing pans
½ cup slivered almonds

Preparation:

Pre-heat oven to 375º. Coat two  9” X 5” loaf pans with margarine. In a bowl large enough to hold all ingredients mix the flour, spices and cream of tartar with a fork.

In a large bowl, mix the honey, juice and coffee together, Whisk in the sugar, oil and egg. Add the fig conserve stirring well so it isn’t too lumpy.

Stir in the raisins, and apricots. Stir into the flour mixture along with the nuts. Stir with a wooden spoon until well blended. Divide into prepared loaf pans. Sprinkle almonds over the tops.

Place on middle rack of oven and bake for 15 minutes. Lower temperature to 350º and bake an additional 45 minutes or until cake tester comes out clean. Cool completely in pans on cake rack before removing from pans.

Yield: two 9 ” loaves

PS: Another great resource is Schmell & Azman Kosher Bakery, also in the Colonial Village Shopping Center, at number 7006.

They bake on premises and offer an assortment of kosher cakes, cookies and challahs. I shared the apple babka with several people and there were no, “no” votes. Schmell & Azman are closed early on Friday and all day Saturday, as well as Jewish religious holidays. Their phone number is 410-484-7343.